Across the Meseta…
Camino Journal – Part 3: Into the heart of the Camino
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Carlos and Nancy Reveiz stopped for a photo in front of the León sign in Spain along their journey. Behind them is the León Cathedral, the building of which was started in 1255. - Submitted
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This map of Spain shows the Camino French way (in green) and the progress the Reveizes made along their journey (first 20 days highlighted in red). - Submitted
The Meseta continued to stretch before us, and so did our new normal.
Our little Camino family — Nancy, me, and our three newfound friends — rose before sunrise each morning, packed our backpacks and started another day of walking west across Spain.
At first glance, the Meseta appears endless and unchanging. But the longer you spend there, the more you notice its quiet beauty. Brilliant red poppies painted the fields, tall grasses danced in the wind and golden wheat and cereal crops stretched to the horizon. It wasn’t dramatic scenery, but there was something peaceful and almost hypnotic about it.
After nearly 300 miles on foot, our bodies were beginning to adapt. Our legs were still sore when we started each morning, but they had grown remarkably stronger. Day by day, mile by mile, the Camino was changing us physically before we even realized how much it was changing us in other ways.
One of the greatest joys of the Camino is meeting pilgrims from every corner of the world. Despite speaking different languages and coming from different cultures, we all shared one common goal: to safely reach Santiago de Compostela.
One morning, while packing our backpacks, Nancy noticed a Korean pilgrim sitting quietly in the lobby. He was struggling to care for painful blisters on his feet and didn’t know what to do. Without hesitation, Nancy grabbed our blister kit and gently treated his feet.
He spoke very little English, but words weren’t necessary. His grateful smile said everything.
The next day, we unexpectedly crossed paths again. Using Google Translate, he explained he wanted to buy us drinks at the next village to thank Nancy for her kindness.
When we arrived, he wasn’t there.
Then suddenly, we saw him riding toward us on a bicycle with the biggest smile on his face.
What we didn’t know was he had already walked several miles beyond our destination. He had rented a bicycle and ridden back nearly 3 miles because he had made us a promise.
In his culture, a promise is meant to be kept.
We were deeply touched. It wasn’t about the drinks. It was about integrity, gratitude and the unexpected friendships that seem to happen every day on the Camino.
After 20 consecutive days of walking, we reached León, one of the largest and most beautiful cities along the Camino. We decided it was finally time to give our bodies a well-earned day of rest.
León is home to one of Spain’s most spectacular Gothic cathedrals, often called the “House of Light.” Its breathtaking stained-glass windows flood the cathedral with an incredible display of color. Pictures simply don’t do it justice.
León also marked the end of the Meseta.
As grateful as we were for everything the plains had given us, we were ready for a change. The endless open landscape slowly gave way to forests, rolling hills and shaded trails beneath towering trees. It felt like the Camino was opening an entirely new chapter.
Our rest day, however, came with mixed emotions.
Melissa, one of our Camino family members from Chicago, was staying behind an extra day to meet friends. Our paths would separate there.
It’s difficult to explain how complete strangers become family in such a short time. When you spend every day walking together, sharing meals, helping each other through injuries, celebrating victories and encouraging one another through difficult moments, friendships form that are unlike any we’ve ever experienced.
People often say, “The Camino provides.”
I never fully understood what that meant until this journey.
Our Camino family shared everything — food, blister supplies, clothing, advice, laughter and encouragement. We looked after one another without ever keeping score.
One unforgettable afternoon, Europe was in the grip of a record-breaking heat wave. Four of us were staying in an Albergue without air conditioning, and the heat inside was almost unbearable.
Bob from San Diego happened to have a tiny two-bed room with air conditioning.
Without a second thought, he invited all four of us to squeeze into his little room. It wasn’t comfortable, but somehow it became one of our favorite memories. We laughed, cooled off, shared stories and were reminded once again that generosity doesn’t depend on how much space you have — it depends on how much room you make in your heart.
As we left León, Nancy and I looked forward to one of the Camino’s most meaningful landmarks: the Cruz de Ferro, or Iron Cross.
Standing nearly 5,000 feet above sea level, the simple wooden pole topped with an iron cross rises from a massive mound of stones left by pilgrims from around the world. For centuries, pilgrims have carried a stone from home and placed it at the foot of the cross, symbolically leaving behind burdens, regrets, grief or anything weighing heavily on their hearts before continuing their journey.
For us, the Cruz de Ferro was only three days away.
We had each carried a special stone all the way from home.
Neither of us realized just how emotional that moment would become.
But that’s a story for another day.
Until then... Buen Camino, my friends.
